Up early to experience the Japanese breakfast that we’d booked the night before with Szymon as it looked really tasty and interesting. We did forego going down to eat in our yukata although several other guests did and perhaps we should have. When in Rome and all that. To be honest it’s not so much the yukata (we swan about them at home after all!) but I just can’t deal with slippers.

Anyway, the breakfast didn’t disappoint. Typical Japanese style with a tea or coffee, a few small bowls of various vegetables and similar, rice, furikake (seasoning sprinkled on top of rice) with grilled fish (mackerel or salmon depending on choice) and tamagoyaki – always a personal favourite. Delicious and an excellent start to the day (so much so I had it for the next three mornings!) Too busy eating to take photos unfortunately. 

Although we hadn’t got much planned for the day initially that got changed swiftly when we checked the “Daily things to Do” table in the foyer and spotted that Toji Market was on. The ryokan had something advertised every day, whether it be a suggestion for a local landmark/event or something they were running themselves. I know lots of hotels do this but they usually aren’t interesting or they are tourist trap tours. The staff here however got it dead right and the things they advertised always seemed really interesting. We hadn’t even heard of Toji market but as it was billed as one of the largest textiles markets Tracey had to be sedated to stop her hyperventilating with excitement. Fair enough. If it had been musical instruments I’d have been the same.

Also advertised was a calligraphy taster session that the ryokan staff themselves were running a later so that got booked for the afternoon. Love it when a plan comes together!

Duly packed for buying textiles (i.e. rucksacks as empty as possible!) we set off in search of the fabled market. You can use public transport but we were told by the ryokan staff that it was about a 20-25 minute walk so walk it was. We’d probably have waited for a bus for a good proportion of that and anyway we’re nosey sods who like to see what places are like away from the main routes. Never know what you’ll find eh!

Took us a good half an hour to get there (thanks Google Maps once again - not!) but to be fair we did get a bit distracted by a second hand shop on the way. It had textiles outside and inside so Tracey was powerless to resist.

The market was incredible and if you happen to be in Kyoto when it runs (last Sunday of the month I think – best to check) it’s an absolute must see. Stalls selling just about any item you could want, including some incredible bonsai that I’d have bought a forest of if there was any way to get them back. Which there wasn’t. But the main event is definitely the textiles.

You can get everything from small sample packs of kimono material right up to full blown (and very expensive) kimono. We spent (I say we – I mean Tracey) god knows how long just on one stall that sold second hand yukata, haori (over jackets) and similar garments. The most expensive was about £6 and there were lots for about £2.50!  A long time and a bit of haggling later (the stall holder was actively making deals with customers for bulk buys so why not!) we came away with several haori and a yukata or two. Rinse and repeat all round the market.

I honestly lost count of what we ended up getting but I know it half-filled one of the suitcases. Still, worth every penny as we bought a few really nice pieces, including a beautiful light yukata still wrapped in its original paper wrap which a Japanese lady who was also interested in it informed us was a natsuka. I’m not sure that’s a word or whether I misinterpreted to be honest. Anyway, Tracey got it so all good.  Also one stallholder asked if Tracey could model one of her yukata for a customer and it looked stunning. But it was over £100 and it was spoken for. More’s the pity.

After a very very long time looking at every stall (sometimes several times) in the hot sun we were desperate for a drink so we grabbed some iced coffee and sat down in one of the market cafés. It was really busy so we were soon joined by a couple of lovely older ladies with whom I had the usual conversation – in Japanese with occasional English/Sign Language/Pointing at things/looking thing up on Google. The subject came round to sake (can’t remember how to be honest) and they recommended we go to the Fushimi district of Kyoto as it was famous for it.

What a rather good idea nice Japanese ladies – we’ll do that -どうもありがとうございました!

Once we’d spent a sum similar to the international debt of a third world nation on material (picking up a few more material samples on the way out, because of course!) we headed off back to the ryokan for a quick break then our calligraphy session. (Oh, and the material sample stall on the market was the only time we had a 2000 Yen note (very politely) refused during the entire trip despite what you might read on the net. Anyway…)

The Calligraphy session was excellent fun. Run by our ryokan calligraphy teacher Tomo Seno San. She explained all about the Japanese reading/writing systems and the origin of Kanji. Then she explained that the example that were on show were a lot of happy words like “Dream”, “Sushi” and “Kyoto”, showed us how to hold the brushes and let us practice on newspaper. I can type Japanese but writing it is a different ball game especially with a brush. Tracey doesn’t speak much Japanese at all, but she can paint really well. Tomo Seno San was very patient and soon we were getting the hang of it. Well, sort of. It’s a lifetime study after all.

By the end of the session Tracey had “Kyoto” down pat and I had written depression”, because it’s the most complicated standard Kanji and I’d practiced it as a party piece a while ago. And because I’m Scottish and it fitted the stereotype better than “Dream”. And yes all right – showing off. Have you met me? It looks like a three year old wrote it because I have no skill and the balance is all wrong but still…quite happy with it. Had a great time doing it – thoroughly recommended. (Note: I did have to publicly apologise and explain why I’d written it when they put it on Facebook however. I’d hate anyone to think I didn’t enjoy it because absolutely I loved it!)

Spend a good hour or so trawling round Nishihonganji again, now that it was open, and then round several other adjacent buildings. Starving by this time we got some drinks and Nigiri rolls and sat down in the grounds of what turned out to be a University. Very colonial in style it was too. We’d taken a load of photos and just sat down when we were approached by a very animated Japanese guy who kept pointing to the sky and taking photos. After the initial “Erm..what?” stage we realised he was showing us the circular rainbow in the sky. Several minutes of enthusiastic photo taking later we ended up talking to him and it turns out he specialises in taking photo on cloud formations that are in the shape of animals, primarily dragons. He had an exhibition running of his work and showed us some examples. Ok, a few were stretching it a bit but most were really well done – I’d have been proud to get even one of his better dragon ones. We genuinely would have gone but we’d have left Kyoto before it opened.

Had a bit of a break back at the ryokan to freshen up, then off to catch the bus to the famous Gion district with the plan being to perhaps see a proper Geisha. Too far to walk (would have taken an hour and a half) so we asked about getting a bus. No problem – go to the main street and pick up the 21 bus there. Great – off we trotted. Waited for a very long time for the correct number bus to come but just as we were giving up hope it hoved into view. On we got and spent a good few minutes reading the signs to work out the fare. Turns out it’s a flat fare within a certain area of Kyoto. We might have been better to get the day card suggested by Szymon but there you go. Hindsight wins again. After about 10-15 minutes we realised that we were on the correct bus…but going the wrong way round its loop. If we’d have stayed on it we’d have got to Gion but it would have taken ages.

Mild swearing.

Looking at the route map we got off where it looked like there would be a bus whose route cuts across Kyoto rather than going round and thereby get us near the correct place. It did to be fair but it took a long time coming. Long story short, we ended up with quite a walk at the other end to get to Gion and might have been better staying on the original bus. Ah well – got the steps in for the day anyway.

Found the right bit of Gion eventually – just off the main road through Gion – and it’s very pretty and olde worlde.  And chock full of tourists including endless girls dressed up in kimono pretending to be Geisha and having pictures taken by primarily Americans. Yep, very good girls – enjoy.

However we did see a real Geisha and I grabbed a quick photo as she was obviously on her way to a client and had better things to do than being stopped by a Scottish muppet.

Note: After we posted the photo on Facebook someone told us that the Geisha’s name is Eriha and the girl with her is her Maiko. See – don’t you just love social media sometimes!

Mooched around the area for a very long time taking picture of the temple, the gardens etc and then onto the main drag again to take in the shops, which to be honest are quite expensive and overwhelmingly aimed at tourists. The matcha icecream was a highlight though.

Kept walking until we got to the river and took in the sights, including, for reasons unknown, Darth Vader and a Stormtrooper posing for photos. Very traditional. Turned right into Pontocho which Philip had advised was worth seeing. And it is – lots of high class restaurants with expensive or really expensive price tags, depending on whether they have a river view. Having already had to take out a second mortgage for textiles today we didn’t fancy taking out a third for food. Given a bigger budget we’d have been in like the proverbial though.

After the restaurant ended we found ourselves in a shopping arcade so had a good rummage around the fan shop, the cat themed souvenir shop and then the music shop. (called in the “how long were we in the market today?” card for that one!) Did promise that I’d play drums once in Japan so had a go on a Roland kit and also spotted a bunch of Protection Racket gear (you get everywhere Dean Bowdery!). Also managed to grab a copy of Aldious’ new CD/DVD and took a photo of their signed in-store poster. Fanboy much?

No Takako Matsu concert DVD though more’s the pity. Ah well, can’t win them all. Back in the arcade ended up buying a new yukata for me (no male ones anywhere in Toji market) and by sheer coincidence the one I picked was on a rack with exactly the same one as I already have. What are the odds eh? Not for the first time I was informed politely and with a massive grin that I need to lose weight so the yukata fits better. Yes, ok Captain Subtle – do you want this sale or not :-)

Long circuitous walk back to the 21 bus route and a short while later we were dropped off at the station. Yes, we should have gone the other way in the first place earlier – it would have taken us twenty minutes all in! Note: Wait till you read about the Imperial Palace – it’ll seem very familiar.

Sake, sushi and similar from the combini and then back to the ryokan with aching feet (well, at least I did – Tracey is somehow immune. Apparently it’s the Sketchers trainers). Coffee and a chat with some other tourists from the UK before going up. All very pleasant.

And so to bed.

Happy pixies.