Got up at stupid o'clock this morning (well, I did: Tracey was still spark out) so I could go and take photos of Kaminarimon and Sensoji before the forty billion tourists arrived. 

Seriously - unless you get there ridiculously early you will be buried in people. If I'd have been doing this seriously I would have been up before sunrise but this is a holiday goddammit!

Anyway, got there round about 5:45am and although it wasn't exactly deserted, there weren't too many people there, and most of those seemed to be walking their dogs. We had wondered why we hadn't seen anyone walking dogs during the day and this explains it - they walk them early and late. Spent about an hour shooting pictures around the area and then, as none of the shops were open, I bumbled about down some of the back streets of Asakusa until Starbucks opened and I could get coffee for us both. 

Once we'd both actually woken up properly we were off to 東京スカイツリー / Tokyo Skytree in the morning. Being that you can see it from everywhere in Asakusa it would have been a shame to come all this way and not at least try to go up it. Looks high from a distance. Looks much higher close up. Tracey was very brave and did not wobble at all. Ok, so maybe a bit before we got in the elevator but other than that, she actually enjoyed it. Even suggested we pay the extra and go all the way to the top! Slight wobble-ette walking round the top skywalk but no meltdowns. Anyone who has seen Tracey's reaction to heights will know that this is not a small achievement.

Queues almost non existent too when we originally went up which was nice, although it did start getting busy very soon after. Well worth the money and thoroughly recommended if you get a quiet day - but you'll need to get there early and preferably on a weekday.

Back down the lift, watched a bunch of cute kids playing in the water fountains (it was baking hot) and then trolled back off to Asakusa. 

Happened to go past a small cat cafe which was open (the big ones were closed today). Did we have to go in? Apparently we did. It was fun, the staff obviously love the cats and the drinks weren't too expensive but to be honest, unless you happen to be there when they are getting fed (when you can help feed them) they have all been poked so much by tourists that they tend to be a tad disinterested. They were very cute though.

Once we'd outstayed our welcome with the cats we piled onto the subway to get to Nihonbashi to go and track down what I'd travelled 6000 odd miles to see - 三浦按針記念碑 - the Miura Anjin (William Adams) Memorial　

Well, ok, obviously not just this but it was very very high on the bucket list. I know I bang on about it but the novel Shōgun was what started the whole Japan obsession and Will Adams is the inspiration for the protagonist, Blackthorne. Nihonbashi is easy to get to but the memorial isn't, despite having virtually stalked it on Google Maps. Took ages to find and we ended up walking way way too far. Yes I did have to ask for directions in Japanese (thanks Yuka and Sayuka - just as well I'd practiced!) Miles of retracing our steps and then we walked past it twice before we saw it. It's not that big and it's not that physically impressive but I was a very very very happy boy. Also, for the record, Tracey is very indulgent sometimes.

Neeed to get something to eat so we found a 喫茶店 (kissaten - traditional coffee shop). Honestly it was just like being in an episode of Samurai Gormet - loved it. Croque Monsieur and first try of iced coffee too which Tracey instantly fell in love with and so was definitely not the last. 

Back on the tube towards Shinjuku, got off a bit before there and walked up through Harajuku. Then worked out that it wasn't far on the tube to Shibuya crossing. Rude not to drop by! Proper visit another day (legs were caning by this point), but videoed Tracey walking across. Because you have to. It's the rules.  

Returned to Asakusa and it was getting late so started looking for a restaurant. Found a little yakiniku place in a back street. We got welcomed in by the guy running it and although the lady looked a bit concerned initially she relaxed when I trotted out some of my excrable Japanese. Okay, so asking for their recommendation got us wagu beef which may or may not have been the most expensive thing on the menu also helped break the ice but it was absolutely phenomenal!

Once this was nommed up and washed down with copious sake and beer I was still hungry and spotted a couple of big guys tucking into some other sort of meat based stuff. I thought "screw it" and asked if we could have what they were having. Our host did double check that I was sure which should have been a warning but yep, I'll have that please.

Turned out to be heart and intestines.

Tracey was not incredibly impressed with this*. However she ate a little bit for politeness (which I have not heard the last of yet) and I nommed the rest. It was bloody good in fairness. More beer and sake all helped. Great place to eat and really really friendly people too. Gave them one of my "Stupid Scotsman" meishi which got a laugh. I think. And manged to do the whole meal in Japanese too (notice I didn't say "Good Japanese"!)  although I did have to look up 内臓 (ないぞう "intestines") on my phone. I think that's fair. It didn't figure prominently in my lessons! 

* For "not incredibly impressed" read "fuming".